The penultimate stop on our 2025 Alaska trip was Homer. A late addition to the itinerary, Jenna and I are grateful we made the extra effort. Driving there from Seward made for a long day but the scenery through the mountains and along the Kenai River was gorgeous. Having enjoyed our first two sea kayaking outings so much, we decided to forgo exploring town in depth and instead spend the following day on the water. The forecast called for sun - the only clear day on the trip - so we stopped into the office of a kayaking tour company and signed up for a paddle around Yukon Island.
This being late season we were the only clients on the trip. Since it was a small group our guide, Ian, invited his mother to join in an impromptu Take Your Mom to Work arrangement.
The Homer harbor was busy in the morning. Most of the traffic was small craft; the larger commercial fishing vessels stayed put, festooned with bright fenders. Our crossing to Yukon Island took less than half an hour and we climbed down the folding gangway to another rocky beach.
Homer harbor.
Commercial fishing boats waiting for their season. Photo by Jenna Rizzo.
Once we were comfortably fitted into our kayaks (I always require adjustment of the outfitting to accommodate my long legs) we pushed off into Kachemak Bay, the late summer sun glinting off the waves. Our plan was to circumnavigate Yukon Island anticlockwise, stopping for lunch at a beach along the way.
We passed a sea otter resting on a raft of kelp and continued around a rugged headland to paddle smack into a strong wind. Ian scouted ahead and returned to report that between the wind and waves, conditions were not amenable to proceeding in this direction. Fair enough. We turned around and went the other way, trying our luck around the south side of the island.
Approaching the northern tip of Yukon Island.
Still the wind from the west was whipping the waves into whitecaps. With a larger or less experienced group Ian might have retreated again, but knowing our skill level he felt comfortable taking us through a choppy crossing to paddle through the natural arch of Elephant Rock. We returned with a tailwind to enjoy our lunch on the beach where we began.
Approaching Elephant Rock.
Lining up to paddle beneath the trunk.
It is easier for a kayak to pass through the eye of the arch than for a rich man to gain eternal life.
Our water taxi wasn’t due for a while so Ian offered to take me around the corner from our original turning back point. I climbed into a single kayak and we sliced through the churning current, paddle blades in continuous motion. The wind kicked up, the waves felt about the equivalent of class one whitewater, and we snuck along the cliffs to a cave where we could take shelter and rest before paddling back to the beach. It’s always a bonus to have the guide to yourself and enjoy a greater challenge than the regular tour offers.
Staying close to the cliffs kept us out of heavy seas.
On the water taxi ride back to Homer I felt the familiar sore shoulders of a solid day kayaking. Jenna and I agreed - this was an activity we could share and do a lot more of. It was a treat to see hidden corners of Alaska from the water. Next time we come we’ll venture inland.